THE LITTLE KNOWN FACTS ABOUT HYENAS!

Hyena cubs are a common sight in the Kruger. The hyena clans den in the Culverts and storm drains which are a convenient location for the cubs to grown up out of sight and looked after by mom. The interesting thing about the cubs is that they actually change colour as they grow older. The cubs are born totally black and are of course totally dependent on mother’s milk for the first few months.

The mother will keep them hidden in a den for a few weeks as they grow older and stronger. The other interesting thing is that usually 2 or 3 cubs are born and only 1 is a female. If there are 2 females the stronger one will overcome and even kill the other. The reason is that in hyena clans the hierarchy is very strictly overseen. It is also a matriarchal society. What that means is that there is an alpha female who is the only one who mates most of the time, the other females would mate depending on the alpha female’s discretion. The new born female is already instinctively aware that she is the princess and 2 is too many. So the hierarchy goes lke this, Alpha female, new born female, all other females in a line all the way to the end and then Alpha male. So if you think you are an alpha male then you best not join a hyena clan or all the ladies outrank you.

Anyway the cubs are born totally black and then they slowly start fading into the adult colour. They fade from the face backwards so you can often see half and half cubs which are so cute to look at. The black colour is to protect them in their den, so no predators get a look at them and they can be camouflaged in the den in the darkness. Jackals honey badgers lions leopards martial eagles are all in the running when it comes to who preys on these cubs and the hyena clan is very wary for this reason. COME ON SAFARI WITh US AND HAVE YOUR OWN AMAZING STORIES TO TELL - www.dreadlionsafaris.com

One hot day at the waterhole.

We were in Kruger PArk heading for Satara camp from Tshokwane after a quick breakfast we noticed a herd of elephants heading north as well and slowed to keep pace with them. They were looking like they might cross over and head for the waterhole just ahead so we took up position facing the waterhole and sure enough there they came. The thing is that we had not seen the whole herd yet. So as we were parked there they came across the road and heading down the slope to drink and it was then that I realized that the rest of them were on my left and now the car was between two groups from the same herd.

One female was none too pleased about this. She was suddenly apart from the herd, that itself gave her cause for concern. She turned at the waters edge and gave me a couple of real dirty looks but she passed around the back of the car to the rest of the gang giving me and the car a wide berth with no incident at all. It was a bit hairy however having her behind the car and me parked on the embankment but she just passed over and was fine with the rest of the herd.

It’s a delight to watch a herd of elephants relaxing at the waterhole. There are so many special little interactions and it is not unlike a big human family gathering. The older ones more sedately drinking cuz of course they need a LOT of water. The youngest ones with moms and nannies around to keep them safe and the youngsters were pushing shoving ducking and spraying and generally goofing off. A great sighting. Kruger rocks! COME ON SAFARI WITh US AND HAVE YOUR OWN AMAZING STORIES TO TELL - www.dreadlionsafaris.com

The eland herd and the waterhole.

One hot Kgalagadi morning we saw an amazing sight. A large eland herd was walking along the Auob riverbed. This is a rare sight and eland are not the easiest of antelope to watch, they tend to be skittish and like to watch us from far away.

This herd how ever was obviously heading for the waterhole up ahead. We watched for a while and then drive straight to the waterhole about 1 km ahead to wait for them to come and drink. Or at least that is what we thought would happen. But the Kgalagadi is famous for surprises. What did we find there but the king and his current flame coming for water from the other side and drinking.

They had no idea the herd was coming and were obviously intent on continuing their romantic interlude. They drank and then went a lay down among some trees in the shade.

Its just amazing how animals get a feeling of something wrong, or they are just extra careful especially when getting to an open space where there are trees close by and they are going to be drinking with heads down. The herd never arrived. About 300 meters before the waterhole they drew up and within seconds were over the dunes and gone. The lions had noticed them, but the wonderful part is that they had noticed the lions.

Tan colors, one on top of the other, in the shade, we could hardly see them properly, and we knew exactly where they were. But those eland had picked them out as well and the ones in front led the thirsty troop off and out of harms way. He who does not drink and walks away, lives to drink another day. COME ON SAFARI WITh US AND HAVE YOUR OWN AMAZING STORIES TO TELL - www.dreadlionsafaris.com

THE HUGE MALE LION AT ROOIKOP.

This is a story about the lions of the Kgalagadi. Specifically the huge male I saw at Rooikop. I left Nossob camp a little late cuz we were moving camp and I was a little put off about missing the ‘early’ morning, it was already about 730am and I had lost an hour. But when the Kgalagadi delivers, it happens in spades. So we are driving along and suddenly I hear a low grunt/roar. And there on the left, high up on the crest of the dunes is movement. So I stop, we all watch and bingo it’s a male lion, walking parallel to the car and in the opposite direction. I reverse for a bit and then flipped the car around to drive along the same path when he cut across and came straight down the slope towards the Rooikop waterhole.

The sun caught his beard as he came through the bushes and it was then that we saw him in all his glory. 4 meters in front of the car he walked majestically unhurriedly across the road. What a lion! Certainly the biggest most magnificent Swart Manhaar of all time. Well at least for me. Swart manhaar is the Afrikaans word for black-maned lion, that’s what they have in the Kgalagadi. He was heading for a drink. I positioned opposite him and took some pictures and watched him. He came around and sniffed the ground for news of his family and as I moved the camera it caught his eye. He gave me a look that was simply heartstopping, especially as this massive lion was just 5 meters from the car. He held my eyes for an eternal minute, and then went back to sniffing.

My breath came out in a burst, I had not realised that I had stopped breathing. I pulled out the phone to make a video as he walked away roaring as he went, calling to let everyone know he was here and a message to his family letting them know where he was. The whole group in the car looked at each other, we all felt the same way. It had been an incredible experience. Kgalagadi can be tough, but as I said when it delivers it leaves you speechless.

COME ON SAFARI WITh US AND HAVE YOUR OWN AMAZING STORIES TO TELL - www.dreadlionsafaris.com

THE NSEMANI LIONS.

Deep in the heart of Kruger is a beautiful waterhole called the Nsemani dam. The dam abuts the road and while parked there one can have a panoramic view of the dam and the surrounds and naturally such a large dam attracts wildlife of all sizes, so it’s a game viewing paradise. I had heard that the Nsemani pride that lives around the Nsemani dam had small cubs, and quite a few so that day on safari, I decided to go look for them. Apparently they drink late just after sunset and I was hoping to find the pride lazing about near the waterhole. They were not there. We cant really hang around there too much at that time cuz the camp gates will close and so I left, a little disappointed.

So bright and early the next morning, you guessed it, we went back. Again nothing happening on the road or in the bush on the far side. So we went around the corner to the viewpoint above the river bed and were treated to a wonderful sight. 4 lionesses were sitting in the early morning sun and a couple of cubs lazed close by. As we watched them just lying there a movement caught my eye and sure enough here were more in the back behind the termite mound that lay next to one of the lionesses. Then there was more movement and a few more stood up and stretched. Just getting the kinks out their joints as it were. There are a couple yoga poses that are named after these movements believe it or not.

Lions stretching usually means they are going to move so I moved the car in to a position where they would likely go if they were heading for the shade and sure enough. 23 lions walked by. Just sat there and watched the royal family go past at about 10 to 25 meters. Slowly and casually as if they owned the place which they actually do. Ha! Little ones scurrying along with anxious glances around, bigger ones scoping the area for a potential target, and finally the king just making sure everyone is all ok. It was such a treat, what a way to start the day. What an amazing 30 minutes.

COME ON SAFARI WITh US AND HAVE YOUR OWN AMAZING STORIES TO TELL - www.dreadlionsafaris.com

Leopards in Kruger.

I have written before on my fascination with leopards sicne a young age and that story was told in a different place. http://birdwalkin.blogspot.co.za/2011/03/amazing-sightings-of-leopards-in-gir.html

My sightings of leopards have not been as many as I would have liked in Kruger yet they have all been memorable just the same. It is not often that I get to use a camera effectively while juggling talking to guests, watching animals and other vehicles and all of that and so while the photos maybe indifferent the experience has always been awesome.

The quest for leopard began for me when I was in the 7^th grade, donkeys years ago. My grandfather went on safari in India and knowing of my passion for the wild he sent me a trip report of 6 typed pages. The first para had the words “Mr Spots walking over the rocks”. The imagery was bold and had a profound impression on me. He has passed on to his reward now, that trip report has become compost somewhere, I am 40 years older, but I remember the thrill that I got from reading that report in my hostel dorm.

Of the pix I have posted few are just casual leopards I saw on my dasy guiding but one is special to me. The leopardess with a cub. I met a couple at the Skukuza camp and we got to talking. Prashant is a colonel in the indian army posted in UNPKF in Sudan. His wife and son and I spent a couple of really great days in the park. They were really keen to see leopard and we were lucky enough to bump two of them and one with a cub.

I always tell my guests they have to bring their luck with them. I am here daily mine does not count. Ha! Well they obviously did bring their luck and it paid of in spades. We were driving around and seeing a lot of plains game antelope and giraffe and so many others and yet leopards and lions were missing. It was getting close to late afternoon and soon we would have to get back to camp and i would have to leave the park and still nothing. Suddenly we came down a road and one car was parked and the driver was peering across the road. A leopard crossed here he said when I asked and as we watched he came up out of the bushes to lie down and crouch down low as though stalking. Then he noticed that it was buffalo on the other side of the bushes and so relaxed and stayed there for quite a while as we watched. 

The leopardess was a similar case there were cars parked and no one could see her. With the Landrover seats being higher we not only saw her but also the little fellow next to her. What an amazing sighting. Leopardess and cub sleeping 20 mtrs off the road. Supreme. The little guy had his eyes open but he too was dozing and she was out for the count. Did not move for the whole time we were there. 

The beautiful sunset was a close to an awesome day! Explore Africa with me, and bring your luck with you, it will be fun! 

COME ON SAFARI WITh US AND HAVE YOUR OWN AMAZING STORIES TO TELL - www.dreadlionsafaris.com

The Baboon Hilton!

While you Explore Africa there is one animal that you will find at once endearing and ever present. The ubiquitous baboon. They are gregarious creatures living in troops of up to a 100 and run by a set of males who all have equal status as Dons and yet among equals there is usually a Don of dons. Il Capo di tutti Capi as they say in Sicily.

The males are almost double the size of the females and they brook no back chat. The whole troop is busy trying to get into their good graces and one very common way of endearing yourself to these big boys is to groom them. The females and junior males alike will groom higher status animals and make ‘friends’ so to speak and the bosses enjoy the attention.

The whole troop will wake up in the morning on a favourite tree that they always use to roost and in their territory there are usually a few of these trees that are the “Baboon Hiltons”. Don’t park under there in the night or you will be rained on and it will not be pleasant and that car is gonna stink for a week. Ha!

The morning is for fellowship and catching up and of course grooming. Females will groom the children looking for nits and lice and bits of food left in their fur and so also adults will groom each other. It’s a bonding activity that takes up a good hour or two depending on the weather.

The troop bonds and gets together each day like this. They are a very tight social unit and very little threatens a large baboon troop. Males have canine teeth that are longer and sharper than leopards or lions and two three big males successfully hold off leopards even on the ground. The cats also have a healthy respect for the males fighting skills, strength and of course the teeth!

Baboons have been known to hunt impalas at times and though they often forage together with impalas they have also been known to kill baby impalas for the curdled milk in their stomach. A favourite food. But this is not so common. More common is impala and others under a marula tree getting access to the fruits that the baboons drop and shake loose as they feed on the delicious marula fruit.

Come and Explore Africa and find out something new every day!

COME ON SAFARI WITh US AND HAVE YOUR OWN AMAZING STORIES TO TELL - www.dreadlionsafaris.com

The boys get a talking to!

Young bull elephants go for 20 years under the care and comapnionship of an older bull. We call the youngsters askaris after the Swahili word for soldiers, the big old bull being like a captain over these rambunctious fellows. They get pretty big too and many will be as big or almost as big as the oldest bull.

Sometimes they can also bully each other and this is what one of the elephants I was watching was doing. Dominance hierarchy is what they are all about and they tussle and wrestle constantly testing each others strength.

These two fellows were tussling on the edge of the waterhole and then took the match into the water. They kept at it for quite a while and the other elephants had already moved off a little ways. Then the victor would not let the other one exit the waterhole and it get intense. I mean 3-4 tons on each side and they were shoving each other around…. it was hectic.

The old bull noticed what was happening and came over pushed the bully over to one side and let the other one out of the water. Then it was time for a little disciplinary talk. Ha! Boy when the old one came over he looked pretty upset with what was happening and unceremoniously pushed the bully away. The bully knew what was up next for sure.

Then the little group gathered around again and slowly made their way away into the bush.

Elephants are really amazing to watch and they communicate their feelings and their thoughts so well. It is wonderful to watch. Come and Explore Africa and you will find out it is true.

COME ON SAFARI WITh US AND HAVE YOUR OWN AMAZING STORIES TO TELL - www.dreadlionsafaris.com

Victory lap for mommy!

The Leopard hunts in the darkness! An awesome book by Wilbur Smith and a very exciting and provocative title, slightly fearsome to some I suppose, but of all the sights of the African bush none is more awe inspiring and sought after than that of a leopard.

Inkwe/ Ngwe as it is called in most Bantu languages in the northern and eastern parts of South Africa is the most feared by the villagers because it hunts in darkness and in total stealth. It is the rarest sight of the Big 5 in most reserves and therefore the most desired sighting of all. Even I, who would happily spend the whole day with an elephant, would rush off to a leopard sighting.

I had an awesome experience with a particular female over a period of a year where I was based and this is her story.

I came out of the tent next to the fence line one afternoon and got a funny feeling that someone, something was watching me. I turned right towards the fence hardly 4 meters away and there she stepped out of the bush and came straight up to the fence. A 2 meter high fence does not keep leopards out if they really want to get in and the gates were open any way but to be face to face with this most elusive creature in the Big 5 left a deep imprint on my soul. She turned away and silently went down the embankment to the river and I ran in for the camera. Across the stream are two large Camel thorn trees and she loves the one on the right because it gives her a clear view of the open area just beyond and she make calculations as to what or rather who will be on the menu that evening.

She was pregnant at the time I saw her and though nobody knew then, we figured since she totally disappeared from view for a month or so, and then her tracks were found with little ones next to them. She hunted in the same territory as before and was busy raising her cubs. We found them from time to time in trees where she was leaving them when they were old enuf so she could go hunt for them.

Time went on and then I saw them at 9 months old, large and confident walking thru the bush with mommy. Little cubs fall prey to hyenas and lions often and I was so happy that all 3 made it thru that first gauntlet of 6 months when they are too young to defend themselves or flee.

I saw two of them the other day bush walking, and since carrying the rifle does not allow me to carry a camera as well I got no shots, but the sight of the two siblings walking and stalking is again deeply imprinted. I walked past the drag marks of their kill, minutes old, with fresh red blood not yet congealed on the ground,  leading into the reeds on the rivers edge and thought to myself, THEY MADE IT! How cool is that!

Explore Africa baby, it touches you in so many ways!

Explore Africa baby, it touches you in so many ways!  

COME ON SAFARI WITh US AND HAVE YOUR OWN AMAZING STORIES TO TELL - www.dreadlionsafaris.com